Friday, September 10, 2010

Southern UT

LG, Mdub, Victor B., and I finally escape Vegas and make it to the real desert. Mdub found us a beautiful bivy spot in some Joshua trees relatively close to all the Utah Hills crags. VB and I head  over to the Black and Tan for a few "easy" pitches. I have never been to the B and T, and I pretty much got bouted, but can't wait to get back there.  We went back to camp and on the way ran into BJ, he barely escaped the snow and road closers in Wyoming.

    Camp

Leif and Lindsay joined us in the morning at camp for some coffee. We got to watch the the whippet boys chase nothing around the desert. After we got them back, we headed to the Simian Complex because it was close and a lower elevation...it has been kinda cold on this "spring" trip. We had a good crew and we were psyched to get some things done. We warmed up slowly, and moved on to try something new. Leif and Lindsay were psyched on Nic'o'Fit, and VB and Mdub resurrected some 12s that hadn't seen much traffic lately. Everyone killed but me, all-in-all we had great time in the Utah Hills. Will be back for more.
                      Mdub hiking the route that he Resurrected
                      Leif and Lindsay


Victor B. and I wanted to check out one more place before we had to leave. Where to...? Simian...check, Black and Tan...check,VRG...too loud, Cathedral/Wailing Wall....too cold, Turtle Wall...why not.  We are true sport climbers... complain about everything. We figured that Turtle Wall was a good choice because it was on the way home, near St. George, skin friendly, and warm. Turtle Wall is pretty much located in St. George, just past the Chuckawalla Wall. After warming up, we all jump on the classic jug haul, Banana Dance. Holds so good that you want to take them home and I am sure that someone have. VB and Mdub flashed Tortuga and I did an nice little jug haul on the far left of the wall.

Good time here, but it is just a scene with all the beginners and spray. I swear that I have seen almost 3 deaths at this wall now. So many families and youth groups go out there without knowing much more than a figure 8. Mdub and VB shared some knowledge with them and taught them a few things. Good to share thoughts/technique/beta with people, that is a big part of climbing.





    Banana Dance



    VB giving a little Banana Dance


    Mdub and VB on Tortuga


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