Slow Days

Things are going pretty slow and shitty these last few days. All thanks to a couple of finger injuries. I am blaming my injury on plastic. If I didn't climb/work at a climbing gym and had some self control, I wouldn't be in this mess. I am not going to climb on plastic unless I am training or competing. I will probably not climb for the rest of April. I have been trying to keep myself busy, but it is rough. I did manage to finish bolting my route at the Flaming Gorge Overlook. It's only about 50ft long, but its is very sustained crimping and the crux is that last few moves. I am really psyched to get out there and work on it. I am also psyched to work on my Green River project. Last week I was able to link 8 out of the 15 moves. Shit will go down soon...soon as my fingers are better.

Bishop Continues

Things are still going good here in Bishop. It has kind of been on the busy at the Buttermilks with the Happies and Sads closed because of the fire. Good thing has has warmed up quite a bit. It's not quite sending temps, but it nice and warm. I have been taking it easy lately doing a few v6s, but it will start picking up soon. I haven't climbed on real rock for some time now, and my tips are taking a beating. I finished Get Carter (stiff v7) today and worked on cool v9s.
This trip has really worked me. I climb all the time at home and it still feels like I got hit by a car. I will need a rest day soon, very soon. Speaking of rest, Tim sprained his ankle getting firewood and Beth tweaked a tendon on Molly. It looks like this trip is taking its toll on everyone on this trip but Cody, he has pretty much sent everything he touched. Mad props to Cody!

Bishop burning

So, the crew finally made it back to Bishop. This is my second time here and I am going to take it a little easier this year. When Tim, Cody, Beth, and I showed up at the Buttermilks it was freaking frigid, windy, and threatening to snow. We were certainly not climbing here today.
The following morning was still too cold to climb, so head headed to the Happies. We all warmed up in the Headbanger Cave, then headed over to and we all climbed the Gleaner v6 and Cody and I climbed Seringetti v5. I checked out Goldfish and Swordfish Trombone, very cool. I will be back for those. Things were looking good, but then we were evacuated because a fire was threatening the boulders and parking lot. Looks like we will be hanging out at the Looney Bean the rest of the day. See what happens tomorrow.

Restless

A lot has been going on in the last few months, but not too much climbing outside. I went to SLC, UT to check out the Outdoor Retailer Show. The show was unreal, so many people and companies, just running around with their PDAs, all in such a hurry. I find this quite ironic, the outdoor industry is for people to escape and explore the world and themselves. I was able to checkout FiveTen's new product line, some sick shoes coming out soon.
The following the the tradeshow, a bunch of us headed to Laramie for a bouldering comp and some crazy parties. It was great to see all my climbing buddies. It's been a real solo trip for me lately. I haven't been to Lander this year yet or even the Flaming Gorge. I was on the edge of insanity until I found myself a sick new project right in my hometown. It's about 15 moves long and most the moves are pretty low percentage. I think that when it goes, it will be at least v11.
I will be heading to Bishop tomorrow with a crew reaching around 20 or so. It will be great climbing with Tim, Chris, and Cody. Mad sessions to come, shit will go down.

St. George

There is so much rock out there! Cody Harris and I have just returned from a five day trip to St. George. There is a lot of rock down there. Cody and I tore up the sandstone crags such as the Chuckawalla wall and the Turtle Rocks. The first day there I onsighted two 12as and one 12b, flashed a 12b and 12a, and made quick work of a 13a (which Cody should have flashed).

We checked out the limestone areas in the Utah Hills. We checked out the the classic 14a the Present and David Graham's Psychedelic 14d. We didn't climb anything in the Utah Hill because of the cold temps, but I would love to return one day. It's the type of place to go and get strong.

One day we checked out the not to great Moe's Valley. Cody and I sent a lot of the areas moderates. Cody met his match on the Beast. I would like to check out Moe's a few more times, the area has potential. On the way out of Moe's, we saw Graham working on a new problem that would later become a v13.

The rest of the trip was spent at the Virgin River Gorge. This is not the most peaceful and beautiful place, but it was still pretty sick. There are so many hard climbs there. I am looking forward to going back to the VRG again, but I need a super psyched and patient partner, for the routes are relentless. I can't wait to get on the road again. So much rock out there!

Friendly Weekend Sessions

Saturday, Nori, Tyler, and I went to hit up some the Zepplin and Cart Bridge Boulders. It was a pretty moderate day for us. We had only a few new ascents, many repeats, and a few goes on some personal projects. This was Tyler's only second time outside, mad props.

On Sunday, Chris, Stephanie, Nori, and I went out to the lastest addition of the Gorge, Brown's Park. This was Stephanie's first time climbing outside, check out her flesh wounds. She seriously tore it up.Chris sent and I repeated a sick new dyno called Weird Science, in the V8 range with an optional death topout. 3 Amigos saw another ascent and a few laps by Chris and I. Chris finally found a new solution for the extremely frustrating $20 Sloper and made the sixth ascent. We then made quick work of a short power problem to the left of $20 Sloper.

What a day. I am always get so psyched when I get to go and pull down with some friends. Hope to have many more days like this one.

Mad Sessions

Man, tis the season...for crushing. We have nice cool temps, 307 comps are just warming up, and the Flaming Gorge is ready for some mad sessions. My hometown gym just hosted the first of six comps, for the 307Bouldering circut. So I was locked away setting the sickness for the climbers bringing their A-Game. Mad props go out to Micah with 307 and Colby and Justin Wood for the awesome energy and sessions at the Gorge. So many new climbs and repeats went down at the new area...Brown's Park. One boulder alone saw six new first ascents each just as good as the other. $20 Sloper was probably one of the best and unique v6s I have ever done. I am so psyced for the winter sessions to come.